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Joe Rogan Experience #1185 - Kelly Slater

Kelly Slater is a professional surfer. He is the youngest and the oldest to win the World Surf League men's title, which he's won a record 11 times.

Joe RoganhostKelly Slaterguest
Oct 23, 20182h 3mWatch on YouTube ↗

EVERY SPOKEN WORD

  1. 0:021:28

    Kelly Slater’s catastrophic foot break in South Africa (Lisfranc fracture)

    1. JR

      Four, three, two, one. (claps) Kelly Slater, we've been talking about doing this for how long? (laughs)

    2. KS

      A couple years. (laughs)

    3. JR

      It's been a while, man.

    4. KS

      Thanks for having me.

    5. JR

      Thanks for being here.

    6. KS

      Thanks a lot, yeah.

    7. JR

      I'm glad we finally got a chance to do it. What are you in California for? I know you broke your foot, right?

    8. KS

      I broke my foot real bad. I, um-

    9. JR

      How'd you do that?

    10. KS

      My... Well, my girlfriend's from San Clemente, and, uh, her family lives there. And, uh, so we kinda live here, and we're not moving around too much, so I'm just kinda here right now. I'm not competing. I broke my foot, I was surfing in South Africa about, um, 15 months ago. And I was just on a wave that I wouldn't consider a very big wave, nobody would really consider dangerous. And it all kinda closed out, which is, you know, when it all breaks at once, I just pulled in the thing 'cause I was gonna sorta wash in on the rocks right where that was and change boards. And, uh, I was practicing. I, I had to compete in about two hours from then, so I was just testing out different boards. For some reason, I wasn't riding the board I was planning on riding competition, so I was gonna come in and change and switch to my norm board. And I just pulled in this wave and just... I kinda hesitated. Like, usually, you either ride those out and stay on your board, or you jump off, and I was kinda be- between the two. And I kinda lifted my front foot off and my back foot, my leg was straight 'cause I was kinda going to... I think I was gonna jump off. And as my foot got... my leg got locked back straight, the board flipped in-

    11. JR

      Oh.

    12. KS

      ... against the toes-

    13. JR

      (laughs)

    14. KS

      ... and it just broke the top of my foot in half.

    15. JR

      Oh.

    16. KS

      Like, immediate, like, there was-

    17. JR

      Oh, my God.

    18. KS

      Yeah, it-

  2. 1:284:35

    X-ray breakdown: shattered bones, plates, screws, and delayed surgery risks

    1. JR

      We're looking at a photograph of the X-ray right now, and it's like every bone is snapped.

    2. KS

      Well, what you can't see... So the-

    3. JR

      Ooh.

    4. KS

      Do you know... Are you, are you aware of the Lisfranc joint?

    5. JR

      No.

    6. KS

      Which is like... That's where the first big metatarsal comes together, so that first big joint on top of the foot there.

    7. JR

      Why is it called the Lisfranc joint?

    8. KS

      Lisfranc was a doctor, I think, is what I... um, I could... We could look this up. (laughs)

    9. JR

      (laughs)

    10. KS

      I think that was the person that did the original surgery-

    11. JR

      Oh.

    12. KS

      ... which when you used to break your foot in a stirrup back 100 years ago, they used to cut your foot off.

    13. JR

      Oh, God damn it.

    14. KS

      Yeah, so, so that was what, what it, uh... That was kinda how this sort of joint got famous. But normally what happens is those toes, those two bones right there, the first and second metatarsal, can either spread or converge one way or the other, and that's usually what a Lisfranc fracture is. I had the best of the three, which is... I had a crack, you can just see on the right side of... Yeah, if you go down with the cursor right there, just a little lower, there's a little crack right there. Uh, right there on that l- corner up.

    15. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    16. KS

      And then the next one broke across. You can just see right there, it's cracked across and then-

    17. JR

      Uh-huh.

    18. KS

      So it kinda went in a line up and across the foot. And the, the-

    19. JR

      And then the other two are just destroyed.

    20. KS

      Yeah, the third one displaced, the fourth one shattered into about eight pieces.

    21. JR

      Oh.

    22. KS

      The doctor said he lost count putting them back together. And the... You know, you, you would know from injuries, the problem with when there's shatters of bone, they're not getting the blood flow.

    23. JR

      Right.

    24. KS

      So it's not like a four or five week repair job. It's like... That was like nine months before that thing was back together properly.

    25. JR

      So when they do that, how do they piece that shattered one back together again?

    26. KS

      Uh, delicately. And they put like a mesh over. So you gotta kinda like figure out how to... Well, I had, I had a plate on the Lisfranc, and then I had a, a, a plaint, pla- uh, a kind of a bridge across the third and fourth, and so they kinda meshed it all together and then, uh, I think I had 16 screws combined in all that.

    27. JR

      Godamn, man.

    28. KS

      Um, it wa- it was, it was brutal. The problem with it was I did it in South Africa where I wasn't gonna get surgery.

    29. JR

      Oh.

    30. KS

      Um, so I had to wait for the swelling to go down for about six days before I could fly-

  3. 4:357:08

    Repeat surfing foot injuries and how barrel forces flip boards into feet

    1. KS

      And I, I got a doctor I work with here, and I called him straight away. I said, "Look, I... It's my fourth broken foot, but I've never broken it like this." Usually it's like, let it heal for four weeks and you're surfing.

    2. JR

      And it's all from surfing?

    3. KS

      Yeah.

    4. JR

      You- Did you bring them-

    5. KS

      And all from the same wave.

    6. JR

      Oh, really?

    7. KS

      Really, pretty much the board going back against the foot.

    8. JR

      Fuck.

    9. KS

      Um, 'cause... And usually it happens when I'm... you know, I don't know how well-versed you are in surfing, but when I'm tube riding and usually with my back to the wave, which has happened two or three times, so I'm in the wave, the, the lip pitches over and lands, but when that lands, it sends a shock back into the wave. Like, you know when the lip hits flat water, that lip, some of the energy goes down and some disperses out and up and some comes back into the tube. So if it does that and you're in the wrong spot, the board will flip into your feet. But-

    10. JR

      Oh, wow.

    11. KS

      ... normally what we do is we're, we're... when you're w- backside barrel ride, a lot of times you're grabbing the rail, so you kinda have both your feet and your hand on it so you can handle that shock.

    12. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    13. KS

      But if you're just going no hand backside, it's usually a pretty big, intense barrel, and, and so the l- that lip has a lot of energy in it and shoots a ton of force back towards you. And if, if the... it hits your board just wrong, it can flip into your foot and break it.

    14. JR

      Do you know anybody else who's broken their foot like you, like that?

    15. KS

      Not this bad. Um, one guy on tour broke his foot, uh, pretty bad n- requiring surgery this year. Um-

    16. JR

      That looks horrible, man.

    17. KS

      Yeah.

    18. JR

      How long was it before you could walk... No, you're walking totally normal now. So how long has it been since the surgery?

    19. KS

      Yeah, so, so I had surgery in end of July last year, and then walking normal wasn't till...... maybe December, January.

    20. JR

      Wow.

    21. KS

      December. Well, December I competed again, but I probably shouldn't have.

    22. JR

      (laughs)

    23. KS

      But we were, we were at Pipeline in Hawaii, which is ... You're not doing maneuvers. It's not a small wave kinda compet- ... If the waves are small, I wouldn't have surfed. Since it's bigger-

    24. JR

      Oh.

    25. KS

      ... it's a little easier 'cause you take off and kinda trim a straight line.

    26. JR

      Right.

    27. KS

      So you're kinda going straight, you know. Even though you're riding the barrel, you're kinda going straight, and-

    28. JR

      But are you conscious of your foot being compromised?

    29. KS

      Yeah.

    30. JR

      Wow.

  4. 7:089:37

    Healing hacks debate: elevation, magnets, hyperbaric chambers, and bone timelines

    1. JR

      Now when you are healing, is there anything they give you that can accelerate bone healing? Or is there any supplements, or?

    2. KS

      Uh, uh, a lot of it is kind of ... I mean, it's the furthest place from your heart, right? So, and it's-

    3. JR

      Yeah.

    4. KS

      ... it's down at the bottom of your body, so you gotta kinda get that foot up. Like, a lot of times I'll sit against a wall and elevate my foot and let it completely flush out. You know when you're a kid and you kinda hold your hand and somebody pushes all the blood outta your hand? You ever do that one?

    5. JR

      No.

    6. KS

      Oh, it's like this trick where somebody holds your, your-

    7. JR

      Your wrist?

    8. KS

      ... hands, your, your arteries so no blood's going in. You push all the han- all the blood out, and then you let it go and it's like a little spider web. Feels like, if somebody goes like that, it would feel like a spiderweb.

    9. JR

      Oh, you know what? I think I did do that when I was a kid.

    10. KS

      Yeah, so-

    11. JR

      I just forgot about it.

    12. KS

      ... I just kind of imagine (snaps fingers) that's what I was doing with my foot up and, like, "Oh, okay, all the blood's getting outta my foot now." And, um, (smacks lips) uh-

    13. JR

      But did you-

    14. KS

      But they-

    15. JR

      ... like research whether there's something that accelerates bone healing, or?

    16. KS

      You can use magnets, like some magnets-

    17. JR

      Magnets?

    18. KS

      Yeah. Some people believe magnets help increase the circulation and thus the, the, uh-

    19. JR

      Oh, these-

    20. KS

      Especially a, a rotating magnet 'cause it kinda creates a force field around your foot.

    21. JR

      Really?

    22. KS

      Yeah, supposedly.

    23. JR

      I mean-

    24. KS

      I mean around the magnets.

    25. JR

      But is this, like ... Are these legit people? Are these, like-

    26. KS

      These are, like, theories.

    27. JR

      Healers?

    28. KS

      Healers.

    29. JR

      I'm a healer.

    30. KS

      Yes.

  5. 9:3713:57

    From leg kicks to Pride stories: Hoost highlights, Arona, and fight culture

    1. JR

      Oh, that's supposed to r- I know that Uriah Faber used that a lot after he fought Jose Aldo. Aldo kicked the shit out of his leg and his leg was really badly swollen. It was horrible.

    2. KS

      No break- did he break the bone there?

    3. JR

      No, didn't break the bone, but it was, it was so bad. It was like his left leg was literally twice the size and purple.

    4. KS

      Yeah, I remember ... I've seen the, I've seen the fight-

    5. JR

      The photos?

    6. KS

      ... and heard you talking, you know.

    7. JR

      And there it is right there. There's a photo of it. (gasps)

    8. KS

      Yeah, and in the fight you're talking about, look at the color on his leg.

    9. JR

      It was so nasty.

    10. KS

      Yeah, it was hideous.

    11. JR

      That was, uh, Aldo when he was in his prime.

    12. KS

      And he ... You didn't see those kicks. You couldn't see his kicks coming. They're just like-

    13. JR

      He was so fast.

    14. KS

      He doesn't even load up.

    15. JR

      Oh, look at that.

    16. KS

      It just, there.

    17. JR

      God. That's probably right afterwards.

    18. KS

      It must have felt broken.

    19. JR

      It feels fucking horrible just to get hit once, man. I mean, Uriah is so tough. To just take that-

    20. KS

      (laughs)

    21. JR

      ... over and over and over again like he did.

    22. KS

      Yeah. (laughs) Well, do y- can you check those? I mean, what if-

    23. JR

      You can, but-

    24. KS

      Can you turn into them and let- what is the-

    25. JR

      The problem is when you get hit o- ... Just getting hit once by a guy who's really good, like a Peter Aerts or someone who's like a really good leg kicker, they hit you once and you're, you're not even gonna be able to lift your leg upright. You-

    26. KS

      Well, think of a charley horse a guy gives you-

    27. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    28. KS

      ... in school when you're a kid.

    29. JR

      Yeah.

    30. KS

      You know how bad that ... It's probably 10 times that or whatever.

  6. 13:5718:17

    Yoga, breath control, and flexibility as combat/surf performance tools

    1. KS

      I see some of these yogis. I follow this guy, this yogi guy, and I think... God, this guy named, uh, Gokula Condra or something. And he, he, um, he puts these poses up and I think, "If this guy did jujitsu, there's no way somebody could tap him out." 'Cause he-

    2. JR

      (laughs)

    3. KS

      ... he's doing these, the craziest... I don't know how you put your... I've never seen somebody put their body in these contortionist positions. And you just wonder if somebody who's a real true contortionist, if they knew jujitsu and how to escape things, if they could ever really get tapped-

    4. JR

      Well-

    5. KS

      ... with, like, arms. I'm sure necks or guillotines or whatever, but...

    6. JR

      What do you got here, Jimmy?

    7. NA

      This is Ray.

    8. JR

      Oh, there was a guy... I thought you were showing us something. There's a guy named Ray who was... Oh, Jesus.

    9. KS

      This guy. Yeah.

    10. JR

      This, look at this guy. Wow, that's insane.

    11. KS

      Wait, is... Did you follow this guy?

    12. NA

      No, I just found him.

    13. KS

      Yeah, he's-

    14. JR

      Oh, my God. That's insane.

    15. KS

      Well, he does these poses where he's, he's balancing on his elbow and he's... And then the rest of his body's in these poses. It's insane.

    16. JR

      Wow.

    17. KS

      These hand poses and stuff.

    18. JR

      Look at that one in the... Go above that, right there on the right.

    19. KS

      To the right?

    20. JR

      The far right, Jimmy.

    21. KS

      That thing, yeah.

    22. JR

      Yeah, that one. When he's on one hand.

    23. KS

      It's amazing.

    24. JR

      That's-

    25. KS

      It's insane.

    26. JR

      ... fucking nuts, man.

    27. KS

      Yeah, this kind of stuff. And the strength and the, the amount of time you gotta take to learn these things, it's like, it's... I mean, that's a m- sort of a martial art in itself.

    28. JR

      Oh, yeah. Well, y- y- um, there's a guy who's, uh, uh, a famous jujitsu guy who once said that yoga is a martial art that you do against yourself.

    29. KS

      Yeah.

    30. JR

      That's how-

  7. 18:1722:06

    Foot dexterity sports rabbit hole: Sepak takraw and elite coordination stories

    1. JR

      I posted a video of these guys in Thailand that were doing that. They were playing s... Like, volleyball, a version of volleyball with their feet.

    2. KS

      Yeah.

    3. JR

      And it's fucking wild, man.

    4. KS

      Yeah, it's like the ultimate hacky sack, man.

    5. JR

      Yeah, it's the craziest shit. Like, the dexterity they have with their feet, where they're whacking the ball over... And then the other guy on the other side is whacking it back and-

    6. KS

      Yeah.

    7. JR

      ... it's like they're catching it with their foot. Oh, look at this.

    8. KS

      Yeah.

    9. JR

      Whoa.

    10. KS

      Look at the angles they get.

    11. JR

      ... yeah. I mean, the flexibility too. And these guys are really close to each other too.

    12. KS

      Yeah.

    13. JR

      That's-

    14. KS

      There must be some good fails, like kicks in the face. Right?

    15. JR

      Oh, I'm sure. I'm sure there's a lot of that.

    16. KS

      What's it called? Uh, Asian games...

    17. JR

      This is Koreans.

    18. KS

      Sir-

    19. JR

      Boom.

    20. KS

      ... Sarak Takraw?

    21. NA

      Yeah.

    22. JR

      Look at that kick.

    23. KS

      Sarak Takraw. (laughs)

    24. JR

      Oh my God, that's insane. And then you have to fall on your hands. And I hope you don't break your wrists.

    25. KS

      Yeah.

    26. JR

      I mean, you're falling from like five, six feet up.

    27. KS

      I wonder if they got kind of a padded, uh, floor, like a mat on a dojo.

    28. JR

      This is pretty impressive stuff. But Jamie, see if you find that video that I posted on my Instagram page. I reposted somebody else posting it, and it, it's fucking bananas, because these guys are using this like little shitty ball in the jungle.

    29. KS

      Yeah.

    30. JR

      And just the ability that they have with their feet is just out of this world.

  8. 22:0638:09

    UFC matchmaking and analysis: CM Punk, Logan Paul, Ferguson vs Khabib, heavyweight chaos

    1. KS

      Why wouldn't someone like him end up in a UFC fight pit?

    2. JR

      Because he doesn't know how to fight on the ground. I mean, that's all it is. It's just-

    3. KS

      But wouldn't they just pin him with another standup guy?

    4. JR

      Uh, if they were smart, yeah, that would be the, the smart t- thing to do. But I mean, you know-

    5. KS

      I mean, you're not gonna put CM Punk against another ground guy, are you? (laughs)

    6. JR

      Right. Well, CM Punk.

    7. KS

      (laughs)

    8. JR

      Yeah, that's... That would be a disaster. CM Punk, that whole thing was... Everybody's like, "I could do it." You know, you watch CM Punk, you're like, "Fuck, I'll fucking fight." Like, they won't give you those fights.

    9. KS

      Well, I guarantee you CM Punk is... CM Punk's probably a lot tougher than the average guy anyway. I mean, I don't know. I don't know fighting. But you know-

    10. JR

      Not even the average fighter.

    11. KS

      No, not the average fighter.

    12. JR

      He's-

    13. KS

      But maybe the average guy in a bar, right?

    14. JR

      CM Punk is a real nice guy, and I don't want to say anything bad about him, because I mean, the guy gave it his all.

    15. KS

      Yeah.

    16. JR

      He really did.

    17. KS

      Totally, totally dedicated.

    18. JR

      Not a, not a bad guy.

    19. KS

      And he, and he ate some humble pie-

    20. JR

      Yeah.

    21. KS

      ... and he was totally cool about it.

    22. JR

      He was. And he was cool about it the first time, and he was cool about it the second time.

    23. KS

      Yeah.

    24. JR

      He's a real good guy. But he doesn't have what I would call talent.

    25. KS

      Yeah, the skill.

    26. JR

      But... It's just moves wrong.

    27. KS

      Yeah.

    28. JR

      It's just, he doesn't-

    29. KS

      You can see him against a Micky Gall, he came in and just went uh, you know, over the top.

    30. JR

      Mickey-

  9. 38:0952:33

    Slater’s longevity on tour: competing at 46, mindset, family dynamics, and competitiveness

    1. JR

      Do you think when you retire you'll do commentary?

    2. KS

      Uh, maybe a little bit, yeah. Maybe a little bit. But I don't want to, I don't really want a job. (laughs)

    3. JR

      (laughs)

    4. KS

      I got, whenever I retire, you know, I've been, look, I've been, I've been on in pro tour pretty much since I was 19, I'm 46. I took about three years off, but I would still compete a little bit those years.

    5. JR

      What are the, what is the high end of the age limit in terms of like-

    6. KS

      46.

    7. JR

      ... when a guy can really compete? Like right now with this sit?

    8. KS

      No, I've, no one's ever been my age on tour.

    9. JR

      Really?

    10. KS

      Yeah. No, I think the next oldest guy on tour is 38 and he's retiring this year.

    11. JR

      Wow.

    12. KS

      When I've got on tour, the oldest guy was 28 years old.

    13. JR

      Holy shit.

    14. KS

      Yeah. It was like, there was a real... You know, there, i- I would say in, in the '80s, there wasn't like, it didn't look like... You could make some money and if you were a top five guy, but it didn't look like you could have like this crazy career. So guys weren't thinking longevity, they're like, "Let's go have a freaking good time."

    15. JR

      Right.

    16. KS

      "Travel around the world and get paid for it for a few years, and then we'll figure out a job after, or maybe we'll have enough money to kind of live real humbly."

    17. JR

      What is the difference between how you prepare and other guys? Is it your diet? Strength and conditioning? Like, what is it?

    18. KS

      Um, I don't overexert myself very much. So my, my training, aside from surfing, isn't a lot. Um, I retain, I feel like I retain enough strength to be good at what I need to. So to find-

    19. JR

      So you don't burn yourself out.

    20. KS

      I don't burn myself out. You know, 'cause like, I, the oldest people in the wor- world weren't athletes.

    21. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    22. KS

      You know, they're kind of people who didn't burn themselves out too much.

    23. JR

      Right.

    24. KS

      So I, my theory on longevity is like, don't overdo it. I don't know, need to necessarily be overtrained for what I do. A lot of the skill, a lot of the, the, the winning that I do competitively is from a skill. It's not so much from being super strong, having crazy cardio.

    25. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    26. KS

      It's making a choice about which wave, how I'm going to approach and ride that wave, and I have to get two scores every 30 minutes when I compete. So it's like I got this 30-minute window I need to be ready for. I don't need to be like in crazy, crazy shape, 'cause-

    27. JR

      So what is it that held other guys back in the past?

    28. KS

      I, I think there's a number of factors. I think, um, you have to naturally be really competitive, like in your, when you were born, in your home, somehow you had to, maybe you needed something to prove, you know. I, I was kind of like, you know, growing up, I, I sort of look back at it and kind of laugh, like I, maybe I couldn't get the girl I liked 'cause she liked an older guy. Or, you know, I didn't have-

    29. JR

      Right.

    30. KS

      We didn't really have any money in my family, so I wanted to make some money. I had an older brother who kind of picked on me, but I hung out with him and played football with his friends that were all three years older than me, so I had to be strong.

  10. 52:3356:11

    Kelly Slater Wave: building a man-made surf ranch and how the wave technology works

    1. KS

      I didn't, I didn't break it, but I didn't displace the bones any, but, I mean, I, I actually rode, I rode a couple waves like six weeks later.

    2. JR

      No.

    3. KS

      Yeah. I probably shouldn't have.

    4. JR

      Why would you do that?

    5. KS

      Well, 'cause we built this wave up, like, uh, up near Fresno. We built a man-made wave. And, um...

    6. JR

      Are those a good way to learn?

    7. KS

      Yeah. They... Well, yeah, they can be. I mean, it depends on how long the wave lasts and what size wave and how fast and all that kind of thing. But our wave's pretty easy to learn on. But it, our wave lasts, on the low speed for a beginner, it lasts like over a minute long.

    8. JR

      That what seems to me that that would be a great way to, like, just get your feet wet.

    9. KS

      Yeah.

    10. JR

      No pun intended.

    11. KS

      You should, you should come up.

    12. JR

      Is that it right there?

    13. KS

      Yeah, but that's not the low setting.

    14. JR

      Kelly's Wave. Look at you.

    15. KS

      That one's like the, uh... That's like-

    16. JR

      That's the high setting?

    17. KS

      Yeah. This was... And this was actually the-

    18. JR

      Where is that? Like, is that a, a outside area?

    19. KS

      It's like 40 minutes south of Fresno. Yeah. It's a big l- it used to be a ski lake, so it's long narrow lake.

    20. JR

      Oh, wow.

    21. KS

      Um-

    22. JR

      That is crazy.

    23. KS

      Yeah.

    24. JR

      That's all man-made?

    25. KS

      This is man-made.

    26. JR

      That's so weird.

    27. KS

      This isn't the newest version of it.

    28. JR

      Th-

    29. KS

      If you were to google, uh, if you were to search like, um, uh, there was a contest called, uh, we had a couple contests. We had one called the, the Surf Ranch Pro about six weeks ago, and that's... We changed the waves since then, and, uh, we remodeled it. We had to rebuild it, but... Um, anyways, the, the reason I surfed was 'cause we were having the first competition at this wave, and I wanted to ride the first wave. Like, uh, I didn't, wasn't gonna compete, I just-

    30. JR

      Right.

  11. 56:111:00:15

    How surfing is judged: subjective scoring, perfect 10s, and Teahupo’o risk calculus

    1. JR

      How do they judge? Like how do they judge? Like-

    2. KS

      It's, it's s- subjective.

    3. JR

      Yeah.

    4. KS

      Um, that's the, probably the tough thing for our sport, but I mean, gymnastics is subjective. Um, ice skating, you know, that kind of thing.

    5. JR

      Mm-hmm. Gymnastics, yeah. Good one.

    6. KS

      So it's, it's, it's not too different, t- and it's not too dissimilar to that. So, you know, the judges are all good surfers, relatively good surfers. Maybe not ex-pros, but you know, guys who know what is possible-

    7. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    8. KS

      ... on a wave. And, um, they're, it's pretty easy for them to c- compare apples to oranges. A different person's skills over the other one. Um, but it would be interesting in UFC, you know, if, if you had judges subjectively judging. Not, not necessarily like who won the round or looking at strike counts, but like, whose style did I like?

    9. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    10. KS

      How fast and how much power did he have? How did he link his, you know, h- strikes together? How were the takedowns?

    11. JR

      There's definitely a subjective element to it, but unfortunately (clears throat) unlike surfing, the UFC's not com- the judges, they're not, it's not comprised of former fighters or people that really know a lot about-

    12. KS

      Which is-

    13. JR

      ... martial arts.

    14. KS

      Which is wrong.

    15. JR

      It's awful.

    16. KS

      Totally wrong.

    17. JR

      It's awful.

    18. KS

      I mean, some, some surfers really believe that the judges should just be ex-pros that were tour level guys, um, that, that make those calls.

    19. JR

      Seems like there's enough of those guys out there, right?

    20. KS

      There are, there may be but, you know, getting back to why ... that kind of leads me back to, like, you asked why guys didn't have the longevity. Look, people get married, have kids, um, have a life back home. All that kind of stuff so, you know, I was sort of, I went a not quite the traditional route with all that stuff. Um, so I had a lot more time, focus, dedication into what I was doing. And I wanted to do it for a long time because I just love surfing and, I mean, ev- if, if I had my druthers every day I'm going to wake up and go ride waves.

    21. JR

      Now is there a point system that they score on? Like-

    22. KS

      Yep, out of 10.

    23. JR

      Out of 10, oh so it's a lot like boxing.

    24. KS

      Out of 10. Not everybody gets a nine. If they lose-

    25. JR

      Mm.

    26. KS

      ... that battle, you know. It's, um-

    27. JR

      10 is the max?

    28. KS

      10's max but I mean, more average you're seeing threes and fours than you are eights and nines, 'cause, you know, it's just a certain wave and a certain skill set gets you up to that excellent category. So we consider eight and up excellent and, you know, s- sort of six, five, to eight is like really good. And then there's-

    29. JR

      And is there a lot of, uh, this debate about whether or not a, a, a, a, a nine is, is, uh, is accurate for someone's ride?

    30. KS

      Yeah. Yeah, there is. Well, if, if it's early ... There's a lot to it, you know. There, like, if it's early in a heat and a guy gets a nine or m- girl gets a nine and then you think that there's a lot more that could've been done either on that day in those types of waves or on that wave specifically. Like, some, uh, occasionally you'll see somebody get a 10. Perfect ride, as good as you can possibly do. It's the ultimate, you should remember that wave forever kind of thing, you know. It's like the perfect knockout. And, but then they won't ride, they'll kick off the wave when there's more to ride or they'll fall and they still get a 10. So like, sometimes you'll see somebody get a really good score and you know a lot more could've been done. They could've been deeper in that tube, they could've been higher in that air, they could've rotated, they could've m- you know, more they could've ... In the air they could've ridden out, like, smoother. It, it could've linked a couple different, more difficult turns together, added more variety. So you, you have to kind of like, i- if anything scale down, I think, as a judge.

  12. 1:00:151:12:31

    Wipeouts, reef survival, and big-wave rescue realities (vests, eardrums, CPR, secondary drowning)

    1. JR

      What is it like when one of those giant tubes-

    2. KS

      (laughs)

    3. JR

      ... crashes down on top of you?

    4. KS

      Um, yeah, so this is Gabe Medina. Um, he w- he ended up winning the contest. Um, it's not super fun when you eat it. (laughs)

    5. JR

      Yeah. I could imagine. It's horrific.

    6. KS

      I mean, you've probably talked to Shane. That's me actually.

    7. JR

      Yeah, I've talked to Shane about it.

    8. KS

      Yeah, and I mean, look Shane, no one's more of an authority than Shane is. Maybe not in the super hollow crazy stuff. I mean s- whatever. Shane rides everything but the biggest waves in the world, Shane's the authority. Like he's had wipe outs that he, he came close to dying. He probably talked to you about the vest he created because of that.

    9. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    10. KS

      He almost drowned. He created a vest that you pull the CO2 cartridge and it blasts, you know, this big bladder and lifts you to the surface. Even if you get knocked out or take in water, somebody's gonna find you and probably save you. Um-But yeah, this is, that's me there. (exhales) Sorry I didn't make that, but... That wasn't even a, a big one, you know, that, that, for that day-

    11. JR

      (laughs)

    12. KS

      ... that was a small wave.

    13. JR

      It's fucking huge though, when that's coming down on you.

    14. KS

      Yeah. But see where I'm at?

    15. JR

      Yeah.

    16. KS

      I'm kind of in blue water.

    17. JR

      Right.

    18. KS

      So I was able to dive and kind of get under it and not get sucked back over.

    19. JR

      Oh, I see.

    20. KS

      So there's a little bit of a skill that goes with wiping out. So you understand that energy, it's... You know, it's like a, it's like a tornado or like a hurricane.

    21. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    22. KS

      Like, the eye wall is the worst, but if you're in the center you're fine.

    23. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    24. KS

      You know, I always, I've always wondered, like, could you follow a hurricane inside the center of the eye? Like, could you just stay with it and be okay?

    25. JR

      I bet you could if you moved at a really slow speed, right? They don't move that fast.

    26. KS

      They only move about 10 to 20 miles an hour.

    27. JR

      Right. Can you-

    28. KS

      Sometimes less.

    29. JR

      Can a plane go that slow?

    30. KS

      No, but maybe you could stay in your car.

Episode duration: 2:03:30

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