EVERY SPOKEN WORD
150 min read · 30,018 words- 0:02 – 1:28
Kelly Slater’s catastrophic foot break in South Africa (Lisfranc fracture)
- JRJoe Rogan
Four, three, two, one. (claps) Kelly Slater, we've been talking about doing this for how long? (laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
A couple years. (laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
It's been a while, man.
- KSKelly Slater
Thanks for having me.
- JRJoe Rogan
Thanks for being here.
- KSKelly Slater
Thanks a lot, yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
I'm glad we finally got a chance to do it. What are you in California for? I know you broke your foot, right?
- KSKelly Slater
I broke my foot real bad. I, um-
- JRJoe Rogan
How'd you do that?
- KSKelly Slater
My... Well, my girlfriend's from San Clemente, and, uh, her family lives there. And, uh, so we kinda live here, and we're not moving around too much, so I'm just kinda here right now. I'm not competing. I broke my foot, I was surfing in South Africa about, um, 15 months ago. And I was just on a wave that I wouldn't consider a very big wave, nobody would really consider dangerous. And it all kinda closed out, which is, you know, when it all breaks at once, I just pulled in the thing 'cause I was gonna sorta wash in on the rocks right where that was and change boards. And, uh, I was practicing. I, I had to compete in about two hours from then, so I was just testing out different boards. For some reason, I wasn't riding the board I was planning on riding competition, so I was gonna come in and change and switch to my norm board. And I just pulled in this wave and just... I kinda hesitated. Like, usually, you either ride those out and stay on your board, or you jump off, and I was kinda be- between the two. And I kinda lifted my front foot off and my back foot, my leg was straight 'cause I was kinda going to... I think I was gonna jump off. And as my foot got... my leg got locked back straight, the board flipped in-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh.
- KSKelly Slater
... against the toes-
- JRJoe Rogan
(laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
... and it just broke the top of my foot in half.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh.
- KSKelly Slater
Like, immediate, like, there was-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, my God.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, it-
- 1:28 – 4:35
X-ray breakdown: shattered bones, plates, screws, and delayed surgery risks
- JRJoe Rogan
We're looking at a photograph of the X-ray right now, and it's like every bone is snapped.
- KSKelly Slater
Well, what you can't see... So the-
- JRJoe Rogan
Ooh.
- KSKelly Slater
Do you know... Are you, are you aware of the Lisfranc joint?
- JRJoe Rogan
No.
- KSKelly Slater
Which is like... That's where the first big metatarsal comes together, so that first big joint on top of the foot there.
- JRJoe Rogan
Why is it called the Lisfranc joint?
- KSKelly Slater
Lisfranc was a doctor, I think, is what I... um, I could... We could look this up. (laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
(laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
I think that was the person that did the original surgery-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh.
- KSKelly Slater
... which when you used to break your foot in a stirrup back 100 years ago, they used to cut your foot off.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, God damn it.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, so, so that was what, what it, uh... That was kinda how this sort of joint got famous. But normally what happens is those toes, those two bones right there, the first and second metatarsal, can either spread or converge one way or the other, and that's usually what a Lisfranc fracture is. I had the best of the three, which is... I had a crack, you can just see on the right side of... Yeah, if you go down with the cursor right there, just a little lower, there's a little crack right there. Uh, right there on that l- corner up.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
And then the next one broke across. You can just see right there, it's cracked across and then-
- JRJoe Rogan
Uh-huh.
- KSKelly Slater
So it kinda went in a line up and across the foot. And the, the-
- JRJoe Rogan
And then the other two are just destroyed.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, the third one displaced, the fourth one shattered into about eight pieces.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh.
- KSKelly Slater
The doctor said he lost count putting them back together. And the... You know, you, you would know from injuries, the problem with when there's shatters of bone, they're not getting the blood flow.
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- KSKelly Slater
So it's not like a four or five week repair job. It's like... That was like nine months before that thing was back together properly.
- JRJoe Rogan
So when they do that, how do they piece that shattered one back together again?
- KSKelly Slater
Uh, delicately. And they put like a mesh over. So you gotta kinda like figure out how to... Well, I had, I had a plate on the Lisfranc, and then I had a, a, a plaint, pla- uh, a kind of a bridge across the third and fourth, and so they kinda meshed it all together and then, uh, I think I had 16 screws combined in all that.
- JRJoe Rogan
Godamn, man.
- KSKelly Slater
Um, it wa- it was, it was brutal. The problem with it was I did it in South Africa where I wasn't gonna get surgery.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh.
- KSKelly Slater
Um, so I had to wait for the swelling to go down for about six days before I could fly-
- 4:35 – 7:08
Repeat surfing foot injuries and how barrel forces flip boards into feet
- KSKelly Slater
And I, I got a doctor I work with here, and I called him straight away. I said, "Look, I... It's my fourth broken foot, but I've never broken it like this." Usually it's like, let it heal for four weeks and you're surfing.
- JRJoe Rogan
And it's all from surfing?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
You- Did you bring them-
- KSKelly Slater
And all from the same wave.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, really?
- KSKelly Slater
Really, pretty much the board going back against the foot.
- JRJoe Rogan
Fuck.
- KSKelly Slater
Um, 'cause... And usually it happens when I'm... you know, I don't know how well-versed you are in surfing, but when I'm tube riding and usually with my back to the wave, which has happened two or three times, so I'm in the wave, the, the lip pitches over and lands, but when that lands, it sends a shock back into the wave. Like, you know when the lip hits flat water, that lip, some of the energy goes down and some disperses out and up and some comes back into the tube. So if it does that and you're in the wrong spot, the board will flip into your feet. But-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, wow.
- KSKelly Slater
... normally what we do is we're, we're... when you're w- backside barrel ride, a lot of times you're grabbing the rail, so you kinda have both your feet and your hand on it so you can handle that shock.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
But if you're just going no hand backside, it's usually a pretty big, intense barrel, and, and so the l- that lip has a lot of energy in it and shoots a ton of force back towards you. And if, if the... it hits your board just wrong, it can flip into your foot and break it.
- JRJoe Rogan
Do you know anybody else who's broken their foot like you, like that?
- KSKelly Slater
Not this bad. Um, one guy on tour broke his foot, uh, pretty bad n- requiring surgery this year. Um-
- JRJoe Rogan
That looks horrible, man.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
How long was it before you could walk... No, you're walking totally normal now. So how long has it been since the surgery?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, so, so I had surgery in end of July last year, and then walking normal wasn't till...... maybe December, January.
- JRJoe Rogan
Wow.
- KSKelly Slater
December. Well, December I competed again, but I probably shouldn't have.
- JRJoe Rogan
(laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
But we were, we were at Pipeline in Hawaii, which is ... You're not doing maneuvers. It's not a small wave kinda compet- ... If the waves are small, I wouldn't have surfed. Since it's bigger-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh.
- KSKelly Slater
... it's a little easier 'cause you take off and kinda trim a straight line.
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- KSKelly Slater
So you're kinda going straight, you know. Even though you're riding the barrel, you're kinda going straight, and-
- JRJoe Rogan
But are you conscious of your foot being compromised?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
Wow.
- 7:08 – 9:37
Healing hacks debate: elevation, magnets, hyperbaric chambers, and bone timelines
- JRJoe Rogan
Now when you are healing, is there anything they give you that can accelerate bone healing? Or is there any supplements, or?
- KSKelly Slater
Uh, uh, a lot of it is kind of ... I mean, it's the furthest place from your heart, right? So, and it's-
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah.
- KSKelly Slater
... it's down at the bottom of your body, so you gotta kinda get that foot up. Like, a lot of times I'll sit against a wall and elevate my foot and let it completely flush out. You know when you're a kid and you kinda hold your hand and somebody pushes all the blood outta your hand? You ever do that one?
- JRJoe Rogan
No.
- KSKelly Slater
Oh, it's like this trick where somebody holds your, your-
- JRJoe Rogan
Your wrist?
- KSKelly Slater
... hands, your, your arteries so no blood's going in. You push all the han- all the blood out, and then you let it go and it's like a little spider web. Feels like, if somebody goes like that, it would feel like a spiderweb.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, you know what? I think I did do that when I was a kid.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, so-
- JRJoe Rogan
I just forgot about it.
- KSKelly Slater
... I just kind of imagine (snaps fingers) that's what I was doing with my foot up and, like, "Oh, okay, all the blood's getting outta my foot now." And, um, (smacks lips) uh-
- JRJoe Rogan
But did you-
- KSKelly Slater
But they-
- JRJoe Rogan
... like research whether there's something that accelerates bone healing, or?
- KSKelly Slater
You can use magnets, like some magnets-
- JRJoe Rogan
Magnets?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. Some people believe magnets help increase the circulation and thus the, the, uh-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, these-
- KSKelly Slater
Especially a, a rotating magnet 'cause it kinda creates a force field around your foot.
- JRJoe Rogan
Really?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, supposedly.
- JRJoe Rogan
I mean-
- KSKelly Slater
I mean around the magnets.
- JRJoe Rogan
But is this, like ... Are these legit people? Are these, like-
- KSKelly Slater
These are, like, theories.
- JRJoe Rogan
Healers?
- KSKelly Slater
Healers.
- JRJoe Rogan
I'm a healer.
- KSKelly Slater
Yes.
- 9:37 – 13:57
From leg kicks to Pride stories: Hoost highlights, Arona, and fight culture
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, that's supposed to r- I know that Uriah Faber used that a lot after he fought Jose Aldo. Aldo kicked the shit out of his leg and his leg was really badly swollen. It was horrible.
- KSKelly Slater
No break- did he break the bone there?
- JRJoe Rogan
No, didn't break the bone, but it was, it was so bad. It was like his left leg was literally twice the size and purple.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, I remember ... I've seen the, I've seen the fight-
- JRJoe Rogan
The photos?
- KSKelly Slater
... and heard you talking, you know.
- JRJoe Rogan
And there it is right there. There's a photo of it. (gasps)
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, and in the fight you're talking about, look at the color on his leg.
- JRJoe Rogan
It was so nasty.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, it was hideous.
- JRJoe Rogan
That was, uh, Aldo when he was in his prime.
- KSKelly Slater
And he ... You didn't see those kicks. You couldn't see his kicks coming. They're just like-
- JRJoe Rogan
He was so fast.
- KSKelly Slater
He doesn't even load up.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, look at that.
- KSKelly Slater
It just, there.
- JRJoe Rogan
God. That's probably right afterwards.
- KSKelly Slater
It must have felt broken.
- JRJoe Rogan
It feels fucking horrible just to get hit once, man. I mean, Uriah is so tough. To just take that-
- KSKelly Slater
(laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
... over and over and over again like he did.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. (laughs) Well, do y- can you check those? I mean, what if-
- JRJoe Rogan
You can, but-
- KSKelly Slater
Can you turn into them and let- what is the-
- JRJoe Rogan
The problem is when you get hit o- ... Just getting hit once by a guy who's really good, like a Peter Aerts or someone who's like a really good leg kicker, they hit you once and you're, you're not even gonna be able to lift your leg upright. You-
- KSKelly Slater
Well, think of a charley horse a guy gives you-
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
... in school when you're a kid.
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah.
- KSKelly Slater
You know how bad that ... It's probably 10 times that or whatever.
- 13:57 – 18:17
Yoga, breath control, and flexibility as combat/surf performance tools
- KSKelly Slater
I see some of these yogis. I follow this guy, this yogi guy, and I think... God, this guy named, uh, Gokula Condra or something. And he, he, um, he puts these poses up and I think, "If this guy did jujitsu, there's no way somebody could tap him out." 'Cause he-
- JRJoe Rogan
(laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
... he's doing these, the craziest... I don't know how you put your... I've never seen somebody put their body in these contortionist positions. And you just wonder if somebody who's a real true contortionist, if they knew jujitsu and how to escape things, if they could ever really get tapped-
- JRJoe Rogan
Well-
- KSKelly Slater
... with, like, arms. I'm sure necks or guillotines or whatever, but...
- JRJoe Rogan
What do you got here, Jimmy?
- NANarrator
This is Ray.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, there was a guy... I thought you were showing us something. There's a guy named Ray who was... Oh, Jesus.
- KSKelly Slater
This guy. Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
This, look at this guy. Wow, that's insane.
- KSKelly Slater
Wait, is... Did you follow this guy?
- NANarrator
No, I just found him.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, he's-
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, my God. That's insane.
- KSKelly Slater
Well, he does these poses where he's, he's balancing on his elbow and he's... And then the rest of his body's in these poses. It's insane.
- JRJoe Rogan
Wow.
- KSKelly Slater
These hand poses and stuff.
- JRJoe Rogan
Look at that one in the... Go above that, right there on the right.
- KSKelly Slater
To the right?
- JRJoe Rogan
The far right, Jimmy.
- KSKelly Slater
That thing, yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah, that one. When he's on one hand.
- KSKelly Slater
It's amazing.
- JRJoe Rogan
That's-
- KSKelly Slater
It's insane.
- JRJoe Rogan
... fucking nuts, man.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, this kind of stuff. And the strength and the, the amount of time you gotta take to learn these things, it's like, it's... I mean, that's a m- sort of a martial art in itself.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, yeah. Well, y- y- um, there's a guy who's, uh, uh, a famous jujitsu guy who once said that yoga is a martial art that you do against yourself.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
That's how-
- 18:17 – 22:06
Foot dexterity sports rabbit hole: Sepak takraw and elite coordination stories
- JRJoe Rogan
I posted a video of these guys in Thailand that were doing that. They were playing s... Like, volleyball, a version of volleyball with their feet.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
And it's fucking wild, man.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, it's like the ultimate hacky sack, man.
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah, it's the craziest shit. Like, the dexterity they have with their feet, where they're whacking the ball over... And then the other guy on the other side is whacking it back and-
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
... it's like they're catching it with their foot. Oh, look at this.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
Whoa.
- KSKelly Slater
Look at the angles they get.
- JRJoe Rogan
... yeah. I mean, the flexibility too. And these guys are really close to each other too.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
That's-
- KSKelly Slater
There must be some good fails, like kicks in the face. Right?
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, I'm sure. I'm sure there's a lot of that.
- KSKelly Slater
What's it called? Uh, Asian games...
- JRJoe Rogan
This is Koreans.
- KSKelly Slater
Sir-
- JRJoe Rogan
Boom.
- KSKelly Slater
... Sarak Takraw?
- NANarrator
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
Look at that kick.
- KSKelly Slater
Sarak Takraw. (laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh my God, that's insane. And then you have to fall on your hands. And I hope you don't break your wrists.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
I mean, you're falling from like five, six feet up.
- KSKelly Slater
I wonder if they got kind of a padded, uh, floor, like a mat on a dojo.
- JRJoe Rogan
This is pretty impressive stuff. But Jamie, see if you find that video that I posted on my Instagram page. I reposted somebody else posting it, and it, it's fucking bananas, because these guys are using this like little shitty ball in the jungle.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
And just the ability that they have with their feet is just out of this world.
- 22:06 – 38:09
UFC matchmaking and analysis: CM Punk, Logan Paul, Ferguson vs Khabib, heavyweight chaos
- KSKelly Slater
Why wouldn't someone like him end up in a UFC fight pit?
- JRJoe Rogan
Because he doesn't know how to fight on the ground. I mean, that's all it is. It's just-
- KSKelly Slater
But wouldn't they just pin him with another standup guy?
- JRJoe Rogan
Uh, if they were smart, yeah, that would be the, the smart t- thing to do. But I mean, you know-
- KSKelly Slater
I mean, you're not gonna put CM Punk against another ground guy, are you? (laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
Right. Well, CM Punk.
- KSKelly Slater
(laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah, that's... That would be a disaster. CM Punk, that whole thing was... Everybody's like, "I could do it." You know, you watch CM Punk, you're like, "Fuck, I'll fucking fight." Like, they won't give you those fights.
- KSKelly Slater
Well, I guarantee you CM Punk is... CM Punk's probably a lot tougher than the average guy anyway. I mean, I don't know. I don't know fighting. But you know-
- JRJoe Rogan
Not even the average fighter.
- KSKelly Slater
No, not the average fighter.
- JRJoe Rogan
He's-
- KSKelly Slater
But maybe the average guy in a bar, right?
- JRJoe Rogan
CM Punk is a real nice guy, and I don't want to say anything bad about him, because I mean, the guy gave it his all.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
He really did.
- KSKelly Slater
Totally, totally dedicated.
- JRJoe Rogan
Not a, not a bad guy.
- KSKelly Slater
And he, and he ate some humble pie-
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah.
- KSKelly Slater
... and he was totally cool about it.
- JRJoe Rogan
He was. And he was cool about it the first time, and he was cool about it the second time.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
He's a real good guy. But he doesn't have what I would call talent.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, the skill.
- JRJoe Rogan
But... It's just moves wrong.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
It's just, he doesn't-
- KSKelly Slater
You can see him against a Micky Gall, he came in and just went uh, you know, over the top.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mickey-
- 38:09 – 52:33
Slater’s longevity on tour: competing at 46, mindset, family dynamics, and competitiveness
- JRJoe Rogan
Do you think when you retire you'll do commentary?
- KSKelly Slater
Uh, maybe a little bit, yeah. Maybe a little bit. But I don't want to, I don't really want a job. (laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
(laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
I got, whenever I retire, you know, I've been, look, I've been, I've been on in pro tour pretty much since I was 19, I'm 46. I took about three years off, but I would still compete a little bit those years.
- JRJoe Rogan
What are the, what is the high end of the age limit in terms of like-
- KSKelly Slater
46.
- JRJoe Rogan
... when a guy can really compete? Like right now with this sit?
- KSKelly Slater
No, I've, no one's ever been my age on tour.
- JRJoe Rogan
Really?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. No, I think the next oldest guy on tour is 38 and he's retiring this year.
- JRJoe Rogan
Wow.
- KSKelly Slater
When I've got on tour, the oldest guy was 28 years old.
- JRJoe Rogan
Holy shit.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. It was like, there was a real... You know, there, i- I would say in, in the '80s, there wasn't like, it didn't look like... You could make some money and if you were a top five guy, but it didn't look like you could have like this crazy career. So guys weren't thinking longevity, they're like, "Let's go have a freaking good time."
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- KSKelly Slater
"Travel around the world and get paid for it for a few years, and then we'll figure out a job after, or maybe we'll have enough money to kind of live real humbly."
- JRJoe Rogan
What is the difference between how you prepare and other guys? Is it your diet? Strength and conditioning? Like, what is it?
- KSKelly Slater
Um, I don't overexert myself very much. So my, my training, aside from surfing, isn't a lot. Um, I retain, I feel like I retain enough strength to be good at what I need to. So to find-
- JRJoe Rogan
So you don't burn yourself out.
- KSKelly Slater
I don't burn myself out. You know, 'cause like, I, the oldest people in the wor- world weren't athletes.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
You know, they're kind of people who didn't burn themselves out too much.
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- KSKelly Slater
So I, my theory on longevity is like, don't overdo it. I don't know, need to necessarily be overtrained for what I do. A lot of the skill, a lot of the, the, the winning that I do competitively is from a skill. It's not so much from being super strong, having crazy cardio.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
It's making a choice about which wave, how I'm going to approach and ride that wave, and I have to get two scores every 30 minutes when I compete. So it's like I got this 30-minute window I need to be ready for. I don't need to be like in crazy, crazy shape, 'cause-
- JRJoe Rogan
So what is it that held other guys back in the past?
- KSKelly Slater
I, I think there's a number of factors. I think, um, you have to naturally be really competitive, like in your, when you were born, in your home, somehow you had to, maybe you needed something to prove, you know. I, I was kind of like, you know, growing up, I, I sort of look back at it and kind of laugh, like I, maybe I couldn't get the girl I liked 'cause she liked an older guy. Or, you know, I didn't have-
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- KSKelly Slater
We didn't really have any money in my family, so I wanted to make some money. I had an older brother who kind of picked on me, but I hung out with him and played football with his friends that were all three years older than me, so I had to be strong.
- 52:33 – 56:11
Kelly Slater Wave: building a man-made surf ranch and how the wave technology works
- KSKelly Slater
I didn't, I didn't break it, but I didn't displace the bones any, but, I mean, I, I actually rode, I rode a couple waves like six weeks later.
- JRJoe Rogan
No.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. I probably shouldn't have.
- JRJoe Rogan
Why would you do that?
- KSKelly Slater
Well, 'cause we built this wave up, like, uh, up near Fresno. We built a man-made wave. And, um...
- JRJoe Rogan
Are those a good way to learn?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. They... Well, yeah, they can be. I mean, it depends on how long the wave lasts and what size wave and how fast and all that kind of thing. But our wave's pretty easy to learn on. But it, our wave lasts, on the low speed for a beginner, it lasts like over a minute long.
- JRJoe Rogan
That what seems to me that that would be a great way to, like, just get your feet wet.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
No pun intended.
- KSKelly Slater
You should, you should come up.
- JRJoe Rogan
Is that it right there?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, but that's not the low setting.
- JRJoe Rogan
Kelly's Wave. Look at you.
- KSKelly Slater
That one's like the, uh... That's like-
- JRJoe Rogan
That's the high setting?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. This was... And this was actually the-
- JRJoe Rogan
Where is that? Like, is that a, a outside area?
- KSKelly Slater
It's like 40 minutes south of Fresno. Yeah. It's a big l- it used to be a ski lake, so it's long narrow lake.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, wow.
- KSKelly Slater
Um-
- JRJoe Rogan
That is crazy.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah.
- JRJoe Rogan
That's all man-made?
- KSKelly Slater
This is man-made.
- JRJoe Rogan
That's so weird.
- KSKelly Slater
This isn't the newest version of it.
- JRJoe Rogan
Th-
- KSKelly Slater
If you were to google, uh, if you were to search like, um, uh, there was a contest called, uh, we had a couple contests. We had one called the, the Surf Ranch Pro about six weeks ago, and that's... We changed the waves since then, and, uh, we remodeled it. We had to rebuild it, but... Um, anyways, the, the reason I surfed was 'cause we were having the first competition at this wave, and I wanted to ride the first wave. Like, uh, I didn't, wasn't gonna compete, I just-
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- 56:11 – 1:00:15
How surfing is judged: subjective scoring, perfect 10s, and Teahupo’o risk calculus
- JRJoe Rogan
How do they judge? Like how do they judge? Like-
- KSKelly Slater
It's, it's s- subjective.
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah.
- KSKelly Slater
Um, that's the, probably the tough thing for our sport, but I mean, gymnastics is subjective. Um, ice skating, you know, that kind of thing.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm. Gymnastics, yeah. Good one.
- KSKelly Slater
So it's, it's, it's not too different, t- and it's not too dissimilar to that. So, you know, the judges are all good surfers, relatively good surfers. Maybe not ex-pros, but you know, guys who know what is possible-
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
... on a wave. And, um, they're, it's pretty easy for them to c- compare apples to oranges. A different person's skills over the other one. Um, but it would be interesting in UFC, you know, if, if you had judges subjectively judging. Not, not necessarily like who won the round or looking at strike counts, but like, whose style did I like?
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
How fast and how much power did he have? How did he link his, you know, h- strikes together? How were the takedowns?
- JRJoe Rogan
There's definitely a subjective element to it, but unfortunately (clears throat) unlike surfing, the UFC's not com- the judges, they're not, it's not comprised of former fighters or people that really know a lot about-
- KSKelly Slater
Which is-
- JRJoe Rogan
... martial arts.
- KSKelly Slater
Which is wrong.
- JRJoe Rogan
It's awful.
- KSKelly Slater
Totally wrong.
- JRJoe Rogan
It's awful.
- KSKelly Slater
I mean, some, some surfers really believe that the judges should just be ex-pros that were tour level guys, um, that, that make those calls.
- JRJoe Rogan
Seems like there's enough of those guys out there, right?
- KSKelly Slater
There are, there may be but, you know, getting back to why ... that kind of leads me back to, like, you asked why guys didn't have the longevity. Look, people get married, have kids, um, have a life back home. All that kind of stuff so, you know, I was sort of, I went a not quite the traditional route with all that stuff. Um, so I had a lot more time, focus, dedication into what I was doing. And I wanted to do it for a long time because I just love surfing and, I mean, ev- if, if I had my druthers every day I'm going to wake up and go ride waves.
- JRJoe Rogan
Now is there a point system that they score on? Like-
- KSKelly Slater
Yep, out of 10.
- JRJoe Rogan
Out of 10, oh so it's a lot like boxing.
- KSKelly Slater
Out of 10. Not everybody gets a nine. If they lose-
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm.
- KSKelly Slater
... that battle, you know. It's, um-
- JRJoe Rogan
10 is the max?
- KSKelly Slater
10's max but I mean, more average you're seeing threes and fours than you are eights and nines, 'cause, you know, it's just a certain wave and a certain skill set gets you up to that excellent category. So we consider eight and up excellent and, you know, s- sort of six, five, to eight is like really good. And then there's-
- JRJoe Rogan
And is there a lot of, uh, this debate about whether or not a, a, a, a, a nine is, is, uh, is accurate for someone's ride?
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. Yeah, there is. Well, if, if it's early ... There's a lot to it, you know. There, like, if it's early in a heat and a guy gets a nine or m- girl gets a nine and then you think that there's a lot more that could've been done either on that day in those types of waves or on that wave specifically. Like, some, uh, occasionally you'll see somebody get a 10. Perfect ride, as good as you can possibly do. It's the ultimate, you should remember that wave forever kind of thing, you know. It's like the perfect knockout. And, but then they won't ride, they'll kick off the wave when there's more to ride or they'll fall and they still get a 10. So like, sometimes you'll see somebody get a really good score and you know a lot more could've been done. They could've been deeper in that tube, they could've been higher in that air, they could've rotated, they could've m- you know, more they could've ... In the air they could've ridden out, like, smoother. It, it could've linked a couple different, more difficult turns together, added more variety. So you, you have to kind of like, i- if anything scale down, I think, as a judge.
- 1:00:15 – 1:12:31
Wipeouts, reef survival, and big-wave rescue realities (vests, eardrums, CPR, secondary drowning)
- JRJoe Rogan
What is it like when one of those giant tubes-
- KSKelly Slater
(laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
... crashes down on top of you?
- KSKelly Slater
Um, yeah, so this is Gabe Medina. Um, he w- he ended up winning the contest. Um, it's not super fun when you eat it. (laughs)
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah. I could imagine. It's horrific.
- KSKelly Slater
I mean, you've probably talked to Shane. That's me actually.
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah, I've talked to Shane about it.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah, and I mean, look Shane, no one's more of an authority than Shane is. Maybe not in the super hollow crazy stuff. I mean s- whatever. Shane rides everything but the biggest waves in the world, Shane's the authority. Like he's had wipe outs that he, he came close to dying. He probably talked to you about the vest he created because of that.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
He almost drowned. He created a vest that you pull the CO2 cartridge and it blasts, you know, this big bladder and lifts you to the surface. Even if you get knocked out or take in water, somebody's gonna find you and probably save you. Um-But yeah, this is, that's me there. (exhales) Sorry I didn't make that, but... That wasn't even a, a big one, you know, that, that, for that day-
- JRJoe Rogan
(laughs)
- KSKelly Slater
... that was a small wave.
- JRJoe Rogan
It's fucking huge though, when that's coming down on you.
- KSKelly Slater
Yeah. But see where I'm at?
- JRJoe Rogan
Yeah.
- KSKelly Slater
I'm kind of in blue water.
- JRJoe Rogan
Right.
- KSKelly Slater
So I was able to dive and kind of get under it and not get sucked back over.
- JRJoe Rogan
Oh, I see.
- KSKelly Slater
So there's a little bit of a skill that goes with wiping out. So you understand that energy, it's... You know, it's like a, it's like a tornado or like a hurricane.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
Like, the eye wall is the worst, but if you're in the center you're fine.
- JRJoe Rogan
Mm-hmm.
- KSKelly Slater
You know, I always, I've always wondered, like, could you follow a hurricane inside the center of the eye? Like, could you just stay with it and be okay?
- JRJoe Rogan
I bet you could if you moved at a really slow speed, right? They don't move that fast.
- KSKelly Slater
They only move about 10 to 20 miles an hour.
- JRJoe Rogan
Right. Can you-
- KSKelly Slater
Sometimes less.
- JRJoe Rogan
Can a plane go that slow?
- KSKelly Slater
No, but maybe you could stay in your car.
Episode duration: 2:03:30
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Transcript of episode H3qI3RWgNok
