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Joe Rogan Experience #1189 - Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold is a big wall free solo climber. A documentary feature film titled "Free Solo" captures his record setting ascent of El Capitan, and it can be seen now in movie theaters all over. http://www.honnoldfoundation.org/

Alex HonnoldguestJoe Roganhost
Oct 25, 20181h 41mWatch on YouTube ↗

EVERY SPOKEN WORD

  1. 0:0015:00

    Should I, should I…

    1. AH

      Should I, should I do headphones, or does it matter?

    2. JR

      Yeah, I like headphones.

    3. AH

      I kinda hate hearing myself that loud though.

    4. JR

      Why? You sound good.

    5. AH

      All right.

    6. JR

      Why do you hate hearing yourself?

    7. AH

      Dude.

    8. JR

      Try to pull this sucker up, like about a fist from your face. Good to see you again, man.

    9. AH

      Yeah, it's been a long time.

    10. JR

      It has been.

    11. AH

      Yeah.

    12. JR

      With a guy like you, it's always nice to see you're still alive. (laughs)

    13. AH

      Oh, you know, I do my best.

    14. JR

      Do you get tired of hearing shit like that?

    15. AH

      Oh, I don't care. I mean-

    16. JR

      Do you get tired of like-

    17. AH

      ... I get it a lot.

    18. JR

      ... the weirdness of like interviewing with people and they're like, you know, "You know you could die? Is this scary?"

    19. AH

      (laughs) Yeah. Yeah, that's all right though. I mean, the thing is... Yeah, it's funny, uh, touring with the film, we've been doing Q and A's every night and you get the same questions from the audience all the time.

    20. JR

      Yeah.

    21. AH

      And part of that is tiring. But then part of it, like people ask the same questions because they're obvious, because everybody wants to know the same things.

    22. JR

      Right.

    23. AH

      And I'm like, "I understand that," you know?

    24. JR

      One of the weirdest parts of the film is when they're showing all the guys who have died from free soloing and they're-

    25. AH

      Yeah, though actually, they didn't all die free soloing.

    26. JR

      Oh.

    27. AH

      That, that's actually one of the... That's probably the only thing that I take slight issue with, with the film.

    28. JR

      Ah.

    29. AH

      Is it's slightly hyperbolic, is the... Two of them died BASE jumping and one of them died rope jumping. They, they all were free soloists, which is kind of what the film is saying-

    30. JR

      Uh-huh.

  2. 15:0030:00

    Mm. …

    1. JR

      you're doing is, man, there's moments that you must experience while you are climbing these incredible faces that are kinda magical. When you're up there, you're 1,000 feet up there, the view is fucking spectacular and you're doing it.

    2. AH

      Mm.

    3. JR

      And you, you get to the top of these things. The, the rush and the feeling of accomplishment and the euphoria and just the glory of nature from that perspective.

    4. AH

      Yeah. Yeah, totally.

    5. JR

      Like, look at this.

    6. AH

      Yeah. (laughs)

    7. JR

      Woo! I'm ... You could fucking wash your clothes on the sweat-

    8. AH

      (laughs)

    9. JR

      ... that's in my hands right now. (bangs fist on desk) Man.

    10. AH

      (laughs)

    11. JR

      That's a ... That fucking picture's insane. We're looking at ... What is the, the name of this photo, Jamie?

    12. NA

      Nice.

    13. AH

      It's, uh, the Enduro Corner from El Cap.

    14. JR

      Boah.

    15. AH

      That's actually ... That's the movie poster too.

    16. JR

      (laughs) Fuck, man.

    17. AH

      That's-

    18. JR

      That is-

    19. AH

      Yeah.

    20. JR

      ... so amaz- ... So that, that, that is not sitting in a cubicle. That is not-

    21. AH

      (laughs)

    22. JR

      ... fluorescent lights.

    23. AH

      Well, that, that is the end of a very long path that you have to choose and, and really cultivate. You know? I mean, that's, that's, for me, 23 years of sort of going in a ... Or 22 years or something, of going down a very specific path.

    24. JR

      Very specific. You know?

    25. AH

      Right.

    26. JR

      And you're still ... Uh, you ... Do you have a different van, or are you still in the same van?

    27. AH

      I'm in a better van than last time I was here.

    28. JR

      Wow. Nice.

    29. AH

      Yeah.

    30. JR

      Moving on up. (laughs)

  3. 30:0045:00

    Is that ... (laughs)…

    1. JR

    2. AH

      Is that ... (laughs)

    3. JR

      That looks like-

    4. AH

      Doesn't it look like he's just running, like, on the sidewalk?

    5. JR

      It looks like-

    6. AH

      They just tilted the camera.

    7. JR

      ... it's flat but he's on the ground-

    8. AH

      Yeah, exactly.

    9. JR

      ... and they're, they're faking it-

    10. AH

      Yeah.

    11. JR

      ... for the camera. That's insane.

    12. AH

      Yeah, no, it's totally ...

    13. JR

      Now, do these guys free solo or did they specifically-

    14. AH

      (laughs)

    15. JR

      ... concentrate on this?

    16. AH

      No, no. I mean, imagine if you were free soloing like this, you would die for sure.

    17. JR

      (laughs) Yeah.

    18. AH

      No, that's like-

    19. JR

      I would think that beta blockers would be something that someone who free solos would wanna look into.

    20. AH

      I don't even, I don't, yeah, I don't know what that is.

    21. JR

      Beta blockers are something-

    22. AH

      Okay.

    23. JR

      ... that blocks your, your brain's production of adrenaline.

    24. AH

      Oh. But I mean, I don't know if you'd want that though, because the thing is, if you have an adrenaline spike, it's because something weird went on and you probably want to-

    25. JR

      You want that energy.

    26. AH

      Like I've had a, I've had a couple of times where I like broke a hold off or something, like all of a sudden your hold rips off and then you have that like superhuman surge of like, "Rah!" And you grab back on.

    27. JR

      Yeah, you don't wanna-

    28. AH

      You know?

    29. JR

      ... be mellow at that time.

    30. AH

      Yeah, exactly. You don't wanna be like, "I'm so relaxed as I fall all the way to the valley floor." You know, it's like you wanna freaking hold on.

  4. 45:001:00:00

    Huh. …

    1. JR

      and I couldn't do it. I was like, "Wow, this is really hard."

    2. AH

      Huh.

    3. JR

      It's difficult to do.

    4. AH

      I bet, I bet if you, if you tried a bit, I mean, just because you have such a background in movement and fitness and everything, I bet, I bet it wouldn't be that hard for you.

    5. JR

      Um.

    6. AH

      You know, a little instruction.

    7. JR

      Yeah. I'm pretty heavy though for someone who's short. That, that would be a, an issue is hanging. I'm 200 pounds right now.

    8. AH

      Yeah. But so in theory, climbing should be more in your legs anyway.

    9. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    10. AH

      You should be driving with your legs.

    11. JR

      Right.

    12. AH

      Um, because no matter what, your legs are always bigger and stronger muscles than your arms.

    13. JR

      Right.

    14. AH

      So like that's always what drives you upward.

    15. JR

      Yeah.

    16. AH

      And then your arms should only be holding your weight in and keeping your, keeping you balanced over your feet basically. So-

    17. JR

      That's interesting. That's-

    18. AH

      Yeah.

    19. JR

      ... something that they figured out fairly recently with grappling, over the last like 10, 15 years, with like jujitsu and things-

    20. AH

      Mm-hmm.

    21. JR

      ... along those lines, that your legs, your... it's really important to use mostly your legs when you're grappling.

    22. AH

      Yeah, totally.

    23. JR

      You know?

    24. AH

      I can see that. I mean, that's what's driving you forward and-

    25. JR

      Mm-hmm.

    26. AH

      ... pushing the whole, you know, yeah.

    27. JR

      Controlling your opponent and manipulating your opponent, doing st-

    28. AH

      Mm-hmm.

    29. JR

      ... stuff with your legs.

    30. AH

      Yep.

  5. 1:00:001:01:40

    Well, no. I'm saying…

    1. JR

    2. AH

      Well, no. I'm saying I'm the strong beginner.

    3. JR

      Yeah, but that's okay.

    4. AH

      Very strong grip and no idea what I'm doing. Just like, "Ah."

    5. JR

      Yeah. But the real problem would be if we were both beginners.

    6. AH

      Yeah. Okay.

    7. JR

      That would be the real problem.

    8. AH

      Hmm.

    9. JR

      The like a, a strong spaz is not really ...

    10. AH

      They're (laughs) -

    11. JR

      ... they're not gonna work against a black belt.

    12. AH

      That's a, yeah. (laughs) That's the learning curve for climbing too. You don't want two beginners going out and trying to like climb a mountain together.

    13. JR

      Yeah. I would worry about-

    14. AH

      Then you're like you have nobody, uh ...

    15. JR

      I would worry about that. Like if you're climbing, do you ever climb like ... Is there a chain, like one person in front of you? Like when you guys are on ropes?

    16. AH

      Yeah, yeah. I mean so it's ... Yeah. When you climb with a rope, it's basically two people. One goes out first and then brings up the second 'cause you're limited by the length of the rope. So basically one-

    17. JR

      Right.

    18. AH

      ... person goes out to the end of the rope, brings up the next person. That person climbs through, brings uh, up the second-

    19. JR

      So are you dependent upon the holds that they put in when they put those bolts into the cracks and all the things that-

    20. AH

      Well, so bolts, bolts and things are put in by the first ascensionist, so the very first person to have ever climbed the route, but then everybody thereafter is able to just clip their, their equipment into the bolts or, uh, you know, use pre-established anchors, things like that.

    21. JR

      Oh, so like if you go-

    22. AH

      So all the, all the routes are already established and you can like read a book that shows all the different routes.

    23. JR

      Oh.

    24. AH

      So like El Capitan has, uh, something like 112 different routes up it.And-

    25. JR

      Wow.

    26. AH

      ... and of those 112, only 15 or so of them can be free climbed, which is different than free soloing. Free climbing, meaning just using your hands and your feet, and you're still using a rope, you're still clipping into protection as you go, but you're only using your hand and your feet to get you up, as opposed to, like, putting gear in and then pulling on the gear, which would be-

    27. JR

      Oh.

    28. AH

      ... considered cheating. So of the 100 routes on El Cap, you know, something like 90 of them, you have to pull on the hardware. You have to, like, clip little ladders into it and step on, you know, you have to hammer pitons in and then clip into them and stand on them and hammer another piton and step on that.

Episode duration: 1:41:26

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