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Joe Rogan Experience #1571 - Emily Harrington

Rock climber and adventurer Emily Harrington is a five-time US National Champion in Sport Climbing. She has scaled some of the world's most formidable mountains, including Everest, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu, and is the first woman to free climb El Capitan via Golden Gate in under 24 hours. @DangerStikTV

Joe RoganhostEmily Harringtonguest
Nov 27, 20202h 11mWatch on YouTube ↗

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  1. 0:0015:00

    (drumming music) Joe Rogan podcast,…

    1. NA

      (drumming music) Joe Rogan podcast, check it out. The Joe Rogan Experience. (rock music)

    2. JR

      Train by day, Joe Rogan podcast by night. All day. (rock music) Hello, Emily.

    3. EH

      Hi.

    4. JR

      What's happening?

    5. EH

      Not much.

    6. JR

      You seem very normal. And that's-

    7. EH

      (laughs)

    8. JR

      ... what always stuns me about people who do insane things. Like, they're just r- like, Alex Honnold, I've met him a few times, had him on the show a couple times. Super normal guy, but does what you do.

    9. EH

      Yeah. I would argue Alex isn't as normal as me. (laughs)

    10. JR

      Oh, really? How so? (laughs)

    11. EH

      I don't know. You, you met him. (laughs)

    12. JR

      I think he's normal. Like-

    13. EH

      He's pretty normal. He does-

    14. JR

      He's very mellow.

    15. EH

      He... What he does is exponentially more, um, (clicks tongue) dangerous than what I do, I would argue.

    16. JR

      Because there's no ropes at all.

    17. EH

      He doesn't use ropes. I do use ropes.

    18. JR

      Yeah.

    19. EH

      Yes. (laughs)

    20. JR

      It's, it's... Listen, it's dangerous. What you do is dangerous. W-

    21. EH

      We'll get there.

    22. JR

      Yeah.

    23. EH

      (laughs)

    24. JR

      Um, tell people what you did 'cause it's pretty crazy.

    25. EH

      Um, so I did what's called free climbing. I free climbed a route on El Capitan, which is a 3,200-foot cliff in Yosemite National Park, and I did it in under 24 hours.

    26. JR

      That is a long way to go.

    27. EH

      Yeah.

    28. JR

      Three thousand two hundred and-

    29. EH

      It's something. 3,200 feet is what I say. I think it might just be, like, a little more than that. (laughs)

    30. JR

      When you're halfway there, Emily Harrington becomes the first woman to scale El Capitan via its notoriously difficult Golden Gate route. Why is that route more difficult?

  2. 15:0030:00

    I used to have…

    1. JR

      have a sense of what you need to train? Like how- how do you decide what you do?

    2. EH

      I used to have a coach. Um, I ... Because when I first started climbing I was basically just only doing climbing competitions so I just was a competition climber. So I have a really solid base in, in training and how to train. I no longer work with a coach. Um, but I definitely, like, read a lot and I kind of like grab bits and pieces of information from my friends. Um, and so yeah, I do ... I, I do have a set training schedule approach that I kind of like build out in my head and try to stick to it. That said, I'm like pretty, I'm pretty flexible. But I do not just climb, like, if that's what you're asking. I do a lot of specific, specific training. Um, mostly I try to train what I'm weakest at, which is like pure power, pure strength.

    3. JR

      So you're saying that you do trail runs too and you find that that helps you?

    4. EH

      I do think running helps me. M- a lot of climbers would say that running is like not that good for climbing, but-

    5. JR

      Why is that?

    6. EH

      Because it, it makes you tired, essentially, and it decreases your power and your ability to like really pull hard. Um, like you're not really supposed to go running on your rest days but I do it anyway.

    7. JR

      Hm. Why do-

    8. EH

      And for me, sanity-wise, like I just love running.

    9. JR

      Oh. Just good for the head.

    10. EH

      Yeah.

    11. JR

      Yeah. What, so they think that just exhausting your legs from running will mess you up when you're climbing?

    12. EH

      Yeah.

    13. JR

      You love the idea?

    14. EH

      Yeah. I think so. I think it just like depletes your ability to like he- pure power. You know, like if you're doing like a, I mean, I don't know, if you're doing like a weightlifting workout, it doesn't see- it seems like you're not supposed to go run a few miles before you try to like bench press your hardest weight.

    15. JR

      Y- yeah. Is there two schools of thought on that? 'Cause it seems like another school of thought would be if you can condition your body to run and climb, you'll, you'll have a stronger body than one that just climbs.

    16. EH

      Well, that's my philosophy, yeah.

    17. JR

      Yeah.

    18. EH

      (laughs)

    19. JR

      And obviously you're out there kicking ass.

    20. EH

      Well, I mean I'm, I'm try- I'm still, eh, I'm a work in progress.

    21. JR

      Well.

    22. EH

      (laughs)

    23. JR

      Aren't we all? (laughs)

    24. EH

      Yeah.

    25. JR

      So you basically are self-trained in that sense where you-

    26. EH

      Mm-hmm.

    27. JR

      ... you don't have someone who sets a schedule aside for you like, "Today you're gonna lift weights. Today you're gonna run. Today ..."

    28. EH

      No.

    29. JR

      And so how do you do that? Is it just based on how you feel? Do you write it out? Like, what, like when Emily wakes up in the morning and decides today is a what day? How do you do that?

    30. EH

      I ... It's, it's a lot of how I feel. Sometimes I plan it out. Sometimes I write it out. Um, I ... It depends on how much time I have. Like, if I have a chunk of time to train then I'll build like a training schedule. Like if I have a month, I'll, I'll be like okay I'm gonna climb two days on, one day off for the next month. Um, and then on the first day I'm gonna do like more power style training so like shorter workouts, high- you know, like shorter workouts, higher reps or whatever you wanna call it.

  3. 30:0045:00

    And last year when…

    1. EH

      over. It's done."

    2. JR

      And last year when you hit your head, you hit your head much harder?

    3. EH

      Last year I fell on the first (laughs) pitch of the route, um, so close to the ground. Uh, but I fell like 50 feet and I hit a ledge and didn't... The rope like didn't catch me. I hit the ledge.

    4. JR

      Oof.

    5. EH

      Because I was, uh, again, rushing and not placing enough protection and...

    6. JR

      So you fell 50 feet without being caught?

    7. EH

      Uh-huh.

    8. JR

      Oh my god.

    9. EH

      Hit a ledge. Yeah. It was a really, it was pretty gnarly. I-

    10. JR

      How did you hit it?

    11. EH

      I, I don't remember 'cause I got...

    12. JR

      KO'd?

    13. EH

      ... knocked out. Yeah.

    14. JR

      Yeah.

    15. EH

      Um-

    16. JR

      50 feet is-

    17. EH

      But I had this crazy rope burn on my neck and...

    18. JR

      Oh my god.

    19. EH

      Um...Yeah, it was- it was pretty- I had- yeah. We- I had to get rescued, like full on ambulance to the hospital, like spinal injury worries, all that. It was pretty serious. It was definitely the worst accident I've ever had. Um, and it was... I walked out of the hospital that day, which is incredible. Like, that just doesn't happen very often.

    20. JR

      There's you.

    21. EH

      There's me.

    22. JR

      Dressed up like a burrito.

    23. EH

      (laughs)

    24. JR

      And what... So this is when they were carrying you to the hospital? Was that when the-

    25. EH

      Yeah, that's the rope burn.

    26. JR

      Look at that rope burn. Oh my God.

    27. EH

      I also don't know how that happened.

    28. JR

      Oh wow.

    29. EH

      Yeah.

    30. JR

      Wow. And there's no footage of this right? You didn't-

  4. 45:001:00:00

    Yeah, and- …

    1. JR

      you to be cool and wear their stuff. Like, you're out there doing cool stuff, and-

    2. EH

      Yeah, and-

    3. JR

      ... you're wearing the North Face-

    4. EH

      ... and be active within-

    5. JR

      Yeah.

    6. EH

      ... the brand, and like... yeah.

    7. JR

      Is that... does, uh... is... how does that feel, like, to be, like, that's what you do for a living?

    8. EH

      I, y- I would be lying if I said that I didn't feel sometimes a little bit of, like, imposter syndrome, you know?

    9. JR

      How so?

    10. EH

      Kind of like, "Oh," like, "Do I actually deserve this?" Like...

    11. JR

      (laughs)

    12. EH

      This-

    13. JR

      That happens with everybody, though.

    14. EH

      Yeah, I think so.

    15. JR

      Yeah. E-

    16. EH

      Like, "Why am I here?" Like, "Why am I here?"

    17. JR

      Right.

    18. EH

      Like, I don't... I'm not special. (laughs)

    19. JR

      Right. Well, that's probably why you're special.

    20. EH

      Maybe.

    21. JR

      I think. Yeah.

    22. EH

      I don't know.

    23. JR

      I think so. I think people that, like, actually think they're special, genuinely, uh, are... they... that's a, that's a more of a hindrance. I think you're better off with-

    24. EH

      You do?

    25. JR

      Yeah. I think you're better off feeling like shit.

    26. EH

      Okay.

    27. JR

      You're better off-

    28. EH

      I'm gonna continue with that then. (laughs)

    29. JR

      (laughs) I do, 'cause I think, I think it makes you work harder. I, I th- I really do.

    30. EH

      Yeah.

  5. 1:00:001:11:13

    Yeah. …

    1. JR

      show that she's 180 pounds.

    2. EH

      Yeah.

    3. JR

      And she's like, "I'm 180 pounds all we-" She looks fantastic. Like, there's no doubt about it. She's in amazing shape. But she's a big gal. But by getting on that scale and showing, like, "Hey," like, "fuck your numbers."

    4. EH

      Yeah.

    5. JR

      Like, I was like, "That is- that is great and very ..." And saying s- it sounds so crazy to say, especially as a man, that it's brave of her to show her weight, 'cause men don't give a fuck.

    6. EH

      (laughs)

    7. JR

      Like, if you're 180- if a man's 180 or 170 or one-ni- like, no, unless you're trying to get big, you don't care, or unless you're trying-

    8. EH

      Yeah.

    9. JR

      ... to lose weight. Like, no guy says, "Oh, no woman's gonna like me. I'm, you know, 195 instead of, uh, 170." Like, that's nonsense. No guy thinks like that.

    10. EH

      Yeah.

    11. JR

      Like, a number. Like, you have to- like, no one want- "I don't want anybody to know my number." B- b- but for a woman, that's a big issue.

    12. EH

      It's a big issue, for sure. And it's like, I mean, I n- I don't weigh myself anymore, 'cause I'm just like-

    13. JR

      Right.

    14. EH

      I don't- I don't need to deal with that. (laughs)

    15. JR

      It's common for women that have had those issues-

    16. EH

      Yeah.

    17. JR

      ... they just decide, "You know what? I'm just gonna be healthy-

    18. EH

      Yeah.

    19. JR

      ... and look good, and not think about it."

    20. EH

      Yeah, yeah.

    21. JR

      You know?

    22. EH

      And I've- that's one of the things that's been- there's a lot of things that I actually don't like about social media, but that's one thing that I've really appreciated is, like, women, like you're talking about, like, sharing those things and being like, "Yeah, this is who I am. Take it or leave it. This is- this is it."

    23. JR

      I think she gets enough likes-

    24. EH

      Yeah.

    25. JR

      ... like, she gets-

    26. EH

      That it's okay.

    27. JR

      Yeah.

    28. EH

      Yeah.

    29. JR

      She's- she's hot.

    30. EH

      (laughs)

Episode duration: 2:11:41

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