
Ep #22 | WTF are Craft Beverages? Nikhil ft. the Founders of Blue Tokai, Subko, Svami, and Mossant
Nikhil Kamath (host), Matt Chitharanjan (guest), Rahul Reddy (guest), Adithya Kidambi (guest), Nikhil Kamath (host), Aneesh Bhasin (guest), Nikhil Kamath (host), Rahul Reddy (guest), Matt Chitharanjan (guest), Rahul Reddy (guest), Aneesh Bhasin (guest), Aneesh Bhasin (guest), Nikhil Kamath (host), Adithya Kidambi (guest)
In this episode of Nikhil Kamath, featuring Nikhil Kamath and Matt Chitharanjan, Ep #22 | WTF are Craft Beverages? Nikhil ft. the Founders of Blue Tokai, Subko, Svami, and Mossant explores founders unpack India’s craft beverages: coffee, kombucha, tonics, growth. Nikhil Kamath hosts founders/leaders from Blue Tokai (Matt Chitharanjan), Subko (Rahul Reddy), Mossant (Adithya Kidambi), and Svami (Aneesh Bhasin) to define and demystify “craft beverages” in India.
Founders unpack India’s craft beverages: coffee, kombucha, tonics, growth.
Nikhil Kamath hosts founders/leaders from Blue Tokai (Matt Chitharanjan), Subko (Rahul Reddy), Mossant (Adithya Kidambi), and Svami (Aneesh Bhasin) to define and demystify “craft beverages” in India.
They trace personal journeys into beverages, then get highly practical: how to open a café, where profits come from (food vs beverages), what differentiates brands once “good coffee” becomes baseline, and why Tier-2 India is still underserved.
The conversation expands into kombucha and mixers: fermentation basics, consumer education, the role of quick commerce, market sizing, export potential, and why India’s beverage GST/tax rules can discourage innovation.
A recurring theme is that enduring moats come from product quality + distribution + authentic storytelling (not “India’s first”), while culture (community events, subculture, design) increasingly drives footfall as younger consumers drink less alcohol and spend more time in cafés.
Key Takeaways
In India, cafés are food businesses as much as coffee businesses.
Both Blue Tokai and Subko cite ~50/50 revenue splits between food and beverages, meaning menu design and operational consistency matter as much as roast quality for unit economics.
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Differentiation is shifting from “better coffee” to culture, identity, and experience.
Subko argues that as coffee culture matures, good coffee becomes the minimum; brands win via subcultural hooks (vinyl, events), design language, and unique beverage formats (coffee “speakeasy” cocktails).
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A hot kitchen can raise average checks, but talent/consistency become the real bottleneck.
Blue Tokai notes hot kitchens can increase APC, yet retaining strong kitchen staff and maintaining consistency is hard—hence central kitchens + make-lines are often preferred.
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India’s coffee market is still shallow relative to demand—especially outside metros.
Matt estimates ~5,000 branded coffee shops (plus a similar number unbranded), implying a large whitespace, particularly in Tier-2 cities where options are fewer and the category is underpenetrated.
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Opening beside incumbents can help—coffee clusters can expand total demand.
Blue Tokai observes that when multiple cafés open near each other, the area can become a destination and all players may benefit (unlike restaurants where queues concentrate demand).
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Kombucha’s main challenge is education + regulation, not raw materials.
Mossant describes kombucha as fermented sweetened tea; the yeast produces alcohol and acids, bacteria consume alcohol—yet India requires <0. ...
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Kombucha in India is small but growing fast—and extremely price elastic.
They peg India’s kombucha market at ~₹200 crore; Mossant saw ~6× volume lift when price dropped from ₹130 to ₹99, signaling mass adoption depends on accessibility and distribution.
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Quick commerce is a growth accelerant but can become a dependency trap.
Mossant gets ~60% business via quick commerce, but founders warn platforms can demand high commissions (even cited up to 50%), own discovery, squeeze smaller brands, and eventually white-label successful products.
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India’s beverage tax structure discourages innovation in ‘better-for-you’ carbonates.
Svami highlights ~40% tax on beverages that are both sweet and carbonated; removing carbonation or sweetness drops the tax, creating perverse incentives versus a sugar-slab model like the UK’s.
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Craft moats are built by brand pull in offline channels, especially HoReCa.
Svami’s early growth came from restaurant tastings vs Schweppes and being positioned as an ‘upgrade’ option; long-term strength is when consumers ask for the brand by name at bars/restaurants.
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For a new café, a 1,000 sq ft footprint is often optimal.
Blue Tokai suggests ~1,000 sq ft balances CapEx/rent with enough seating to avoid ‘full = lost customer’ dynamics; above ~2,000 sq ft fit-out costs and rent rise faster than revenue.
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Coffee commodity spikes barely move café cup economics but hit packaged/RTD margins.
Matt claims coffee at 50-year highs adds only ~₹2–3 per cup in cafés, but Rahul notes retail beans and RTD formats suffer materially because ingredient cost is a larger share of COGS.
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Performance marketing is not viewed as essential for durable craft brands.
Subko claims zero performance spend in five years; Svami calls most performance agencies commoditized. ...
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Notable Quotes
“Anybody who wants to learn or who's keen on starting a coffee shop, a kombucha brand, sell tonic… should learn something here and go away with that.”
— Nikhil Kamath
“We’re at a four hundred crore run rate.”
— Matt Chitharanjan (Blue Tokai)
“We try to be more accessible… they’re more niche premium.”
— Matt Chitharanjan (comparing Blue Tokai vs Subko)
“You have to have a key focus on shit that has nothing to do with coffee or food.”
— Rahul Reddy (Subko)
“Kombucha is essentially vinegar. It’s tea vinegar.”
— Adithya Kidambi (Mossant)
Questions Answered in This Episode
Blue Tokai: What exactly constitutes the ₹400 crore run-rate—café sales vs retail beans vs B2B wholesale—and which is growing fastest?
Nikhil Kamath hosts founders/leaders from Blue Tokai (Matt Chitharanjan), Subko (Rahul Reddy), Mossant (Adithya Kidambi), and Svami (Aneesh Bhasin) to define and demystify “craft beverages” in India.
Get the full analysis with uListen AI
Blue Tokai Japan: What specific operational/brand changes were needed for Japan (menu, roast profiles, staffing, sourcing narrative), and what has been unexpectedly hard?
They trace personal journeys into beverages, then get highly practical: how to open a café, where profits come from (food vs beverages), what differentiates brands once “good coffee” becomes baseline, and why Tier-2 India is still underserved.
Get the full analysis with uListen AI
Subko: You call your approach a “global Indic design language.” What are the concrete design principles/rules you follow that most brands miss?
The conversation expands into kombucha and mixers: fermentation basics, consumer education, the role of quick commerce, market sizing, export potential, and why India’s beverage GST/tax rules can discourage innovation.
Get the full analysis with uListen AI
Café economics: If food is ~40–50% of revenue, what are the typical gross margins by category (espresso drinks vs pastries vs sandwiches) and what’s the highest-margin hero item?
A recurring theme is that enduring moats come from product quality + distribution + authentic storytelling (not “India’s first”), while culture (community events, subculture, design) increasingly drives footfall as younger consumers drink less alcohol and spend more time in cafés.
Get the full analysis with uListen AI
Competing café concept: If you had to launch a new café today with only ₹2 crore and no roasting, what single ‘hook’ would you pick (multi-roaster, fitness/protein, music, cocktails, etc.) and why?
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Transcript Preview
Anybody who wants to learn or who's keen on starting a coffee shop, a kombucha brand, sell tonic and service all the alcoholics in the country, should learn something here and go away with that. [upbeat music] Rolling? Ready? Hi, guys. Welcome. Uh, thank you for making the effort of lying down. So this is a lot of fun. It's not as serious as the energy you guys are giving out right now. [laughing]
[laughing]
[laughing]
We're here to, like, [beep] together and, uh, have a good time. And hopefully anybody who wants to learn or who's keen on starting a coffee shop, a kombucha brand, or sell tonic and service all the alcoholics in the country-
[chuckles]
Any of that-
Yeah
... should learn something here and go away with that.
Perfect.
Yeah, so we're trying to achieve that. Let's start by telling everyone a little bit about ourself. Who'd like to go first? Matt, you look very interesting. You- [laughing]
[laughing]
[laughing] Looks interesting.
Interesting face.
Yeah.
I peaked already.
[laughing]
It's only downhill from here. [laughing]
When I saw you today for the first time, I was trying to, like, work out, are you Indian? Are you not Indian?
Yeah.
Then I looked at your eyes, and then I'm like, "No."
Mm-hmm.
Can't be Indian, no?
Half.
Half.
Half.
Explain.
So my father, he's from Chennai.
Okay.
He was born and brought up there. He emigrated to the US for graduate school. So then he settled there, and he met my mom. She's Polish, uh, German-American.
The Polish genes were stronger.
Yeah.
[chuckles]
So that's how I got the eyes.
So you moved out when you were how young from Chennai?
No, no, I was born in the US. Born and brought up there. So I grew up in Wisconsin.
Mm.
Um, I went to college in New York. Uh, that's kind of where I started drinking Starbucks coffee because it was available and kind of, you know... It was never for enjoyment. It was just to have something to stay awake. So I was there for four years, studied finance, moved to San Francisco. Uh, and I was there when specialty coffee was really taking off and becoming the mainstream coffee culture. Then I started, uh, going to these coffee shops. I started understanding that coffee could be more than a functional beverage. Where it comes from, how it's roasted, how it's brewed, can open up a wide variety of flavor. And I started, uh, roasting coffee as a hobby. So I did that for a number of years. Uh, worked in, uh, financing, economics-
Shocks, beverages, years, everything long. [laughing]
[laughing] Uh, yeah, so I was doing that. Uh, then, uh, my parents were professors, so I thought I'd, I'd also become a professor. Went to grad school in Canada, didn't really like it. Uh, then I started doing international development projects. So then I was in the Middle East for a year, then moved back to the US. Then in 2011, there was an opportunity to work for an organization in IFA- uh, in Chennai called IFMR.
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