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Hermès (Audio)

In luxury, there’s Hermès… and there’s everyone else. Stewarded by one French family over six generations, Hermès sells the absolute pinnacle of the French luxury dream. Loyal clients will wait *years* simply for the opportunity to buy one of the company’s flagship Birkin or Kelly bags. Unlike every other luxury brand, Hermès: - Doesn’t increase supply to meet demand (hence the waitlists) - Doesn’t loudly brand their products (IYKYK) - Doesn’t do celebrity endorsements (stars buy their bags just like everyone else) - Doesn’t even have a marketing department! (they barely advertise at all) And yet everyone knows who they are and what they represent. But, despite all their iconoclasm, this is not a company that’s stood still for six generations. Unbeknownst to most, Hermès has completely reinvented itself at least three times in its 187-year history. Including most recently (and most dramatically) by the family’s current leaders, who responded to LVMH and Bernard Arnault’s 2010 takeover attempt by pursuing a radical strategy — scaling hand craftsmanship. And in the process they turned the company from a sleepy, ~$10B family enterprise into a $200B market cap European giant. Tune in for one incredible story! Sponsors: Many thanks to our fantastic Season 14 partners: J.P. Morgan Payments https://bit.ly/acquiredJPMP2yt ServiceNow https://bit.ly/acquiredsn Vanta https://bit.ly/acquiredvanta NVIDIA GTC (Code "ACQUIRED" for 20% off) https://www.nvidia.com/gtc/ Visuals for: Haut a Courroies, the “high-belted bag” to carry saddles and boots https://images1.bonhams.com/image?src=Images/live/2014-06/02/94558567-11-1.jpg Chaine d'ancre, “Chain of anchors” https://assets.hermes.com/is/image/hermesproduct/chaine-d-ancre-bracelet-very-large-model--101995B%2000-worn-2-0-0-800-800_g.jpg Jeu des Omnibus et Dames blanches, “White ladies at play” https://i.pinimg.com/originals/61/ac/84/61ac84114c03ee8f818d84a7e5684a80.jpg Screen printing each color on a scarf individually http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QjlwKL9D4MU/UHLsucReiJI/AAAAAAAABXA/s_45ULViyQo/s1600/IMG_1615.JPG The Hermès oranges https://blog.fashionphile.com/hermes-oranges/ Sac à Dépêches (today: the Kelly Bag) https://www.hermes.com/us/en/content/106196-kelly/ Grace Kelly photo in LIFE Magaine https://i.huffpost.com/gen/1457564/thumbs/o-GRACE-KELLY-BAG-570.jpg?8 Steps to sew a saddle stitch https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aaLc5iBboXo/V7yawv5AlsI/AAAAAAAAHuc/fTrGbwc-1Gc9FYwBVpTLMCF-r-T7cFj0ACLcB/s1600/Beginning%2Bwith%2Bthreads%2Bover%2Ban%2Bedge.jpg The Birkin Bag https://www.hermes.com/us/en/content/106191-birkin/ Pettit h https://www.hermes.com/us/en/category/petit-h/#%7C Links: The saddle stitch (video) https://youtu.be/g6HOhqaVXW0?si=rdX6cEfgMQpWo31g Inside the Saddlery at the Faubourg https://www.thedashingrider.com/hermes-inside-the-saddlery/ Hermès 2022 Annual Report https://assets-finance.hermes.com/s3fs-public/node/pdf_file/2023-05/1684143348/hermes-urd-2022-en_01.pdf Axel Dumas Interview https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Htlh8IpER5g All episode sources https://docs.google.com/document/d/13S39Z-7vF4WE8jbFJq_uK3aR-YDV84oBKK-w1cVUi3o/edit?usp=sharing Carve Outs: Anker GaN Prime 100W charger https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Compact-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B0C4DGBHY2 Matter https://hq.getmatter.com Perplexity https://www.perplexity.ai The Score Takes Care of Itself https://www.amazon.com/Score-Takes-Care-Itself-Philosophy/dp/1591843472 More Acquired: Get email updates with hints on next episode and follow-ups from recent episodes https://www.acquired.fm/email Join the Slack http://acquired.fm/slack Subscribe to ACQ2 https://pod.link/acquiredlp Check out the latest swag in the ACQ Merch Store! https://www.acquired.fm/store Note: Acquired hosts and guests may hold assets discussed in this episode. This podcast is not investment advice, and is intended for informational and entertainment purposes only. You should do your own research and make your own independent decisions when considering any financial transactions. © Copyright ACQ, LLC

Ben GilberthostDavid Rosenthalhost
Feb 20, 20244h 11mWatch on YouTube ↗

EVERY SPOKEN WORD

  1. BG

    So I don't know if you realize this, Hermès is reporting earnings in, like, two days.

  2. DR

    Yes!

  3. BG

    And at first I was like, "We should probably not do this episode, because their annual report comes out in two days. What if we're not current?" And then I realized, this is Hermès. The short term is of no consequence [laughing] .

  4. DR

    Yeah. [laughing] Also, the Hermès annual reports are the most beautiful annual reports ever created in the history of the financialization of mankind.

  5. BG

    You might think you can't do all of your charts in orange, you need different colors, but you would be wrong.

  6. DR

    The illustrations, the themes, you can tell they care.

  7. BG

    You can tell. All right, let's do it.

  8. DR

    Let's do it.

  9. SP

    Who got the truth? Is it you? Is it you? Is it you? Who got the truth now? Hm. Is it you? Is it you? Is it you? Sit me down, say it straight. Another story on the way. Who got the truth?

  10. BG

    Welcome to season 14, episode two of Acquired, the podcast about great companies and the stories and playbooks behind them. I'm Ben Gilbert.

  11. DR

    I'm David Rosenthal.

  12. BG

    And we are your hosts. Today, we tell the story of a handbag company that won't sell you a handbag, a traditional saddle maker that makes very little of their revenue from saddles. A company that somehow has grown to be worth over $200 billion, despite rejecting manufacturing efficiencies and economies of scale. A company so obsessed with craft and a reputation for quality, that they have stayed independent, while every other luxury brand has merged into conglomerates. That's right, listeners, today, we tell the oldest story we have ever told here on Acquired, older than Standard Oil or The New York Times. This company dates back to 1837 in Paris, France, the crown jewel of the luxury industry, Hermès.

  13. DR

    Ben, do you know what company was also founded in 1837, that we have discussed quite a bit on Acquired?

  14. BG

    Hmm. No, I do not, David.

  15. DR

    That would be the other iconic color luxury company, Tiffany.

  16. BG

    Oh, really?

  17. DR

    Also founded in 1837.

  18. BG

    Ah, Chuck T. Well, this episode, listeners, has been probably just under 12 months in the making. LVMH was just after one year ago, and it was in that episode that I feel like I got a real penchant for everything that Hermès stood for. You know, after 187 years, still under family control, they're on their sixth generation of family leadership at the helm. I don't know, David, everything Hermès does is just so focused, and intentional, and pure. As much as they sort of get lumped together with brands owned by LVMH, they are in many ways the anti-LVMH.

  19. DR

    Ooh! Oh, we've got a great discussion of that later in the episode. I used to think that, and I no longer think that. But after our LVMH episode, I mean, you were so inspired by learning about Hermès, you went out and you bought your first luxury object, right? And it was not a LVMH brand.

  20. BG

    Yes, that is true. My wife and I were on our honeymoon, listeners, after LVMH, so last summer, and we were in Aix-en-Provence, and we walked by an Hermès store, and I thought, "Well, this would be a great time to go in and get each other something as a honeymoon gift." So my wife got a little, uh, twilly scarf, and I got an Hermès belt, and, uh, it's the only luxury item I own of any luxury brand, traditional luxury brand.

  21. DR

    Yeah. As foreshadowed on our holiday special episode a couple months ago.

  22. BG

    Yep. Well, listeners, if you wanna know every time an episode drops, you can sign up at acquired.fm/email. You'll get hints at what the next episode will be, and follow-up facts from previous episodes when we learn new information. Come discuss this episode with us at acquired.fm/slack. Come check out our second show, ACQ2, where we interview founders, investors, and experts, often as follow-ups to these episodes. And before we dive in, we want to briefly share that our presenting sponsor this season is J.P. Morgan, specifically their incredible payments business.

  23. DR

    Yeah, we really uncovered the breadth of J.P. Morgan Payments as we went deep into industry research for our Visa episode last year. And just like how we say every company has a story, every company's story is powered by payments, and J.P. Morgan Payments turns out to be a part of so many of our Acquired companies' journeys.

  24. BG

    So with that, this show is not investment advice. David and I may have investments in the companies we discuss, and this show is for informational and entertainment purposes only. David, I feel like we're starting before 1837.

  25. DR

    Yes, but not too much before 1837.

  26. BG

    All right, we're not going to, like, the sort of Egyptian invention of the handbag or anything like that?

  27. DR

    Boy, let me tell you, I was tempted. [laughing]

  28. BG

    I was tempted. [laughing]

  29. DR

    Well, if you read The Luxury Strategy, which is a great book that we've referenced many times on Acquired, they start back 50,000 years ago. We start in 1801, not in Paris, not even in France. You know, as we've been talking about, the land of beauty, luxury, enlightenment, where Hermès, of course, was founded and is still based today. And uniquely, Hermès still does 85% of their production by hand by master craftspeople in France, as we will talk a lot about. But instead, we start in the land of hardness and precision, of engineering, of exactitude, the future land of the Porsches of the world. That is right, Germany.

  30. BG

    A century before the Porsches and Volkswagens of the world.

Episode duration: 4:11:09

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